Let's All Go Blonde, Shall We?

   Just wanted to share quickly a fun project from this past Tuesday...in which our goal was to go AS BLONDE AS POSSIBLE in one day.  Often times clients have unrealistic expectations when it comes to going lighter in one shot, but Esin wasn't one of those clients.  She knew that (theoretically) that it might take a few sessions. However, this was the perfect scenario and we were able to lift to the blonde fantasy of our dreams. 

   Esin had a solid level five natural hair color, with no previous color on it. Working with virgin hair is obviously a huge bonus, but at a level five there is tons of red in the hair and I wasn't convinced we could break through it in one three hour session. 

   We started by decolorizing her hair starting an inch from her scalp.  I knew we were going to be painting a dark root on later, so the application here could be on the messier side, honestly.  I took eight sections and wrapped each section in cellophane.  This was my first time using cellophane as opposed to foil and I loved how well it holds heat. Major win. 

   Luckily Esin's hair lifted both fast and pretty even...but stalled at a level eight and a half.  At the sink I toned the whole thing with Illumina 8/69, which made it the most buttery dark blonde.  After blow drying her hair we painted a dark root...feathering it down to give the appearance of overall hair painting...with Illumina 5/81 and 4/.  Focusing on the crown, sides, and mohawk sections I then balayaged with Wella Freelights.  Since Esin's hair was still in great condition I let this process until the balayage was a nice level ten, and toned these using Wella Color Touch 10/6 and 9/16.  

   I couldn't be happier with the result.  Sure, she was at my salon for like five hours, but it was totally worth it. 

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Blonde, Red, And Back Again: A Survival Story.

   There are very few instances where I feel like talking solely about a specific transformation. Usually I focus on a broad range of cuts and color, often grouping them into categories.  However, I was so proud of this transformation from last Saturday that I wanted to dedicate a little slice of the internet toward it.  

   Back in December was the first time coloring Kristyn's hair.  She had a very golden blonde and was looking to go a vibrant bright red.  This had me pretty apprehensive.  Don't get me wrong, I will do whatever a client asks me (as long as its safe for them and their hair), but when a blonde wants to go red...thats kind of scary.  You see, blondes will ALWAYS GO BACK TO BLONDE.  Despite knowing this fact, we went ahead with that plan...and I loved the result. 

   Needless to say, when I saw Kristyn's name in my appointment book last Saturday, I already knew why. She was ready to go back to blonde.  I knew I had a long day ahead of me, but I was super excited for the challenge, as I consider blonding my specialty.  Before i get into the process, here is the final color.

   Because I had a limited time for the initial application, and we wanted the color as bright as possible, I combined both balayage and traditional foiled highlights.  I painted the entire underneath and sides, leaving VERY LITTLE hair out, a lot of people wouldnt have left any hair out at all.  However, we didnt want a total absence of warmth, and the darker pieces create a dimensional shadow effect that I really love.  

   For maximum brightness on the top I did back to back foiled highlights with a VERY fine weave. (just in case your'e wondering, which you probably aren't, I never slice foils...I'm just not a fan.)  This created a bright veil over the more dimensional underneath.  For balayage I used Wella Freelights with 40 volume developer, and the foils I used Wella Blondor with 20 volume. 

   After processing to a solid level 9, I bumped Kristyn's base with Illumina 10/1 and 13 volume developer for about five minutes, just to bring it all together, and for added brightness around her face. This is my go to base break for natural level 7, as long as the hair is on the finer side.  We finished by glazing Kristyn's hair with equal parts 10/6, 9/16, and three inch line of 8/3 in Wella Color Touch.  This is a fool proof toner for buttery blondes...the only factor you need to customize is the amount of 8/3 in your formula, but don't let it scare you! The 10/6 and 9/16 really keep that gold in check. 

   Thanks for listening to me ramble about hair! I was super happy with Kristyn's hair, and am looking forward to seeing her again in a few months to go even brighter.