Recent Work and Some Thoughts On 2017 Hair Trends...

   Hello all! I hope everyone had a wonderful holiday season and that you're ready to jump into 2017 head first.  I know that I am. (January PUT ME THROUGH THE WRINGER at work.) I'm going to share some fun work I've done in recent weeks...and also talk about the subtle shifts in hair color trends this year. 

    2017 will is going to see a huge shift from icy blondes to progressive beige tones. This is a pendulum situation.  We dig cool tones for a few years then shift back to warmth...tale as old as time.

   2017 will is going to see a huge shift from icy blondes to progressive beige tones. This is a pendulum situation.  We dig cool tones for a few years then shift back to warmth...tale as old as time.

    The range of beige tones isn't all that vast. A level 10 to 8 is the sweet spot. Anything darker you would have to over compensate with deep ash tones.  One thing that beige should never be is muddy. 

   The range of beige tones isn't all that vast. A level 10 to 8 is the sweet spot. Anything darker you would have to over compensate with deep ash tones.  One thing that beige should never be is muddy. 

    For the love of god. Why was everyone scared of golden hair for so long? I'm not talking level 8 orange...but seriously, some gold in those level 9/10 highlights is flattering on ALMOST everyone. 

   For the love of god. Why was everyone scared of golden hair for so long? I'm not talking level 8 orange...but seriously, some gold in those level 9/10 highlights is flattering on ALMOST everyone. 

    Dark roots are here to stay, but the contrast is going to be much more subtle.  People really like the lack of maintenance and I don't see it going away any time soon. 

   Dark roots are here to stay, but the contrast is going to be much more subtle.  People really like the lack of maintenance and I don't see it going away any time soon. 

    Rose gold is still in the middle of it's 15 minutes...but the look is getting dustier and dustier.  Spring and Summer will see a dramatic shift to clear cut corals again...verging on orange. 

   Rose gold is still in the middle of it's 15 minutes...but the look is getting dustier and dustier.  Spring and Summer will see a dramatic shift to clear cut corals again...verging on orange. 

    I've notices red heads shifting hardcore away from violet tones and going back to honest to goodness reds and coppers.  I really think that Emma Stone is responsible, and I love it. 

   I've notices red heads shifting hardcore away from violet tones and going back to honest to goodness reds and coppers.  I really think that Emma Stone is responsible, and I love it. 

   So that is where I think hair color is moving right now. A general shift toward warmth in general.  I'm really excited to see some very pale warmth, especially since Wella has recently released some exciting warm colors at a level 10.  What do you think we're going to see in 2017?

Some Recent-ish Work...

   I've been a busy boy...not just at work, but in my personal life too.  I'm not going to complain, I just got back from an epic vacation.  Rest assured that my soul has been revived just in time for the busy holiday season, and I am ready to make everyone beautiful.  Without much description here are some fun things I've done in the last couple of months...

 Just a messy braid when I was bored between clients...but whatever. 

Just a messy braid when I was bored between clients...but whatever. 

 I looooooooooove this green on my girl Amanda.  Nothing fancy, just straight Pravana green. 

I looooooooooove this green on my girl Amanda.  Nothing fancy, just straight Pravana green. 

 Jennifer has one of my favorite heads of hair, and I feel the need to take a picture EVERY SINGLE TIME WE PAINT IT. Love. 

Jennifer has one of my favorite heads of hair, and I feel the need to take a picture EVERY SINGLE TIME WE PAINT IT. Love. 

 Speaking of favorites...I am in love with Theresa's hair.  It's so rare that I get to paint short curly hair...but I loooooove doing it. 

Speaking of favorites...I am in love with Theresa's hair.  It's so rare that I get to paint short curly hair...but I loooooove doing it. 

   Hopefully I will be taking a lot more photos of my work, seeing that its getting cold out and I wont be running around as much. (who am I kidding?)  Have a wonderful fall everyone! :) 

Suburban Anthropologist #5: Summer is ending...

   You guys. I've had the BEST. SUMMER. EVER.  And though we still have a week and a half left of the official season, it really does feel like fall.  Kids are in school. Pumpkin spice is kind. And this morning, I woke up to chilly weather.  Sheesh...that was fast. 

   I have really tried to take advantage of the wonderful warm weather that we had this summer, and went on a lot of adventures since my last Suburban Anthropologist post. 

 I really like this photo from a NYC bar crawl that I went on with friends.  My friend Turkey Leg Jeff was nice enough to take this. :) 

I really like this photo from a NYC bar crawl that I went on with friends.  My friend Turkey Leg Jeff was nice enough to take this. :) 

 Early this year Adam and I got season passes to Hersheypark.  I made the trip down to the park eight times this summer, and I had an absolute blast.  I'm so sad the seasons almost over. :/

Early this year Adam and I got season passes to Hersheypark.  I made the trip down to the park eight times this summer, and I had an absolute blast.  I'm so sad the seasons almost over. :/

 Continuing in my "study" of beer, I recently visited Weyerbacher brewery in PA.  I didn't love the space, but the beer was beyond amazing. 

Continuing in my "study" of beer, I recently visited Weyerbacher brewery in PA.  I didn't love the space, but the beer was beyond amazing. 

 We look forward to Scandinavia Fest every summer.  I thought this tapestry resembled my tattoos! 

We look forward to Scandinavia Fest every summer.  I thought this tapestry resembled my tattoos! 

 Perhaps the greatest feeling in the world...getting your hair done.  Thank you Alyssa at Bangz for hooking my roots up.  I needed it BAAAAAAAA. 

Perhaps the greatest feeling in the world...getting your hair done.  Thank you Alyssa at Bangz for hooking my roots up.  I needed it BAAAAAAAA. 

   Now get out there and enjoy the waning days of summer!  If you don't take advantage of it now, you have NO RIGHT complaining about the long winter. ;)

Let's All Go Blonde, Shall We?

   Just wanted to share quickly a fun project from this past Tuesday...in which our goal was to go AS BLONDE AS POSSIBLE in one day.  Often times clients have unrealistic expectations when it comes to going lighter in one shot, but Esin wasn't one of those clients.  She knew that (theoretically) that it might take a few sessions. However, this was the perfect scenario and we were able to lift to the blonde fantasy of our dreams. 

   Esin had a solid level five natural hair color, with no previous color on it. Working with virgin hair is obviously a huge bonus, but at a level five there is tons of red in the hair and I wasn't convinced we could break through it in one three hour session. 

   We started by decolorizing her hair starting an inch from her scalp.  I knew we were going to be painting a dark root on later, so the application here could be on the messier side, honestly.  I took eight sections and wrapped each section in cellophane.  This was my first time using cellophane as opposed to foil and I loved how well it holds heat. Major win. 

   Luckily Esin's hair lifted both fast and pretty even...but stalled at a level eight and a half.  At the sink I toned the whole thing with Illumina 8/69, which made it the most buttery dark blonde.  After blow drying her hair we painted a dark root...feathering it down to give the appearance of overall hair painting...with Illumina 5/81 and 4/.  Focusing on the crown, sides, and mohawk sections I then balayaged with Wella Freelights.  Since Esin's hair was still in great condition I let this process until the balayage was a nice level ten, and toned these using Wella Color Touch 10/6 and 9/16.  

   I couldn't be happier with the result.  Sure, she was at my salon for like five hours, but it was totally worth it. 

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Blonde, Red, And Back Again: A Survival Story.

   There are very few instances where I feel like talking solely about a specific transformation. Usually I focus on a broad range of cuts and color, often grouping them into categories.  However, I was so proud of this transformation from last Saturday that I wanted to dedicate a little slice of the internet toward it.  

   Back in December was the first time coloring Kristyn's hair.  She had a very golden blonde and was looking to go a vibrant bright red.  This had me pretty apprehensive.  Don't get me wrong, I will do whatever a client asks me (as long as its safe for them and their hair), but when a blonde wants to go red...thats kind of scary.  You see, blondes will ALWAYS GO BACK TO BLONDE.  Despite knowing this fact, we went ahead with that plan...and I loved the result. 

   Needless to say, when I saw Kristyn's name in my appointment book last Saturday, I already knew why. She was ready to go back to blonde.  I knew I had a long day ahead of me, but I was super excited for the challenge, as I consider blonding my specialty.  Before i get into the process, here is the final color.

   Because I had a limited time for the initial application, and we wanted the color as bright as possible, I combined both balayage and traditional foiled highlights.  I painted the entire underneath and sides, leaving VERY LITTLE hair out, a lot of people wouldnt have left any hair out at all.  However, we didnt want a total absence of warmth, and the darker pieces create a dimensional shadow effect that I really love.  

   For maximum brightness on the top I did back to back foiled highlights with a VERY fine weave. (just in case your'e wondering, which you probably aren't, I never slice foils...I'm just not a fan.)  This created a bright veil over the more dimensional underneath.  For balayage I used Wella Freelights with 40 volume developer, and the foils I used Wella Blondor with 20 volume. 

   After processing to a solid level 9, I bumped Kristyn's base with Illumina 10/1 and 13 volume developer for about five minutes, just to bring it all together, and for added brightness around her face. This is my go to base break for natural level 7, as long as the hair is on the finer side.  We finished by glazing Kristyn's hair with equal parts 10/6, 9/16, and three inch line of 8/3 in Wella Color Touch.  This is a fool proof toner for buttery blondes...the only factor you need to customize is the amount of 8/3 in your formula, but don't let it scare you! The 10/6 and 9/16 really keep that gold in check. 

   Thanks for listening to me ramble about hair! I was super happy with Kristyn's hair, and am looking forward to seeing her again in a few months to go even brighter. 

The Week In Hipster Hairdressing...

   A client sits down in my chair. We exchange pleasantries. We smile...then sigh...then simultaneously say, "I really wish it was spring."  

   This is basically how every initial interaction has been going these days. It hasn't been a particularly cold winter in North Jersey, but its been weird.  And honestly even a slight chill is enough to make me grumpy.  All I want to do is cuddle at home.  HOWEVER, this is also my favorite time of year in the salon, as EVERYONE who comes in wants a big change. Literally everyone. 

   Lets look at some fun changes that I worked on in the last week or so...

 From bright coppery red, to a dark blood red...plus 7 inches off length into a severe swing bob. 

From bright coppery red, to a dark blood red...plus 7 inches off length into a severe swing bob. 

 Sick of her super ashy blonde, we went rose-gold for Fran, using Wella Relights. 

Sick of her super ashy blonde, we went rose-gold for Fran, using Wella Relights. 

 I'm guilty of pressuring Elena a little bit here...I really wanted to play with fantasy colors. 

I'm guilty of pressuring Elena a little bit here...I really wanted to play with fantasy colors. 

 Chris's color is ALL NATURAL...but we had fun with her cut. Layering WAY MORE than normal. 

Chris's color is ALL NATURAL...but we had fun with her cut. Layering WAY MORE than normal. 

 Taking several inches off in length, "squaring" out the back, and preserving the perimeter around the face really makes Jennifer's hair look much fuller. So cute on her. 

Taking several inches off in length, "squaring" out the back, and preserving the perimeter around the face really makes Jennifer's hair look much fuller. So cute on her. 

   Anyway.  I just felt like talking about change.  Before we know it Spring will be here officially.  We can all go back to complaining about how hot it is and how we cant wait for fall...and inevitably we will all be changing out hair again.  

   

Hey, Sometimes I Use Fantasy Color...

    I spend the majority of my time behind the chair making people blonde.  Seriously, a good 70% of my clients are always trying to go "just a little bit lighter..." However, I do get to dabble in the dark arts sometimes, and play with fantasy colors.  This week I happened to get two really fun clients who wanted something more suited to them. 

   Kat's color was a loooooong fun project.  You will notice in the before picture that her roots are very light, which means her entire mid-shaft was dyed dark brown. Yikes. After decolorizing everything, her final color was a combo of Pravana green, blue, yellow, and teal. 


   Renee's color was much easier, because she was already pre-lightened, and just needed a fun new tone.  I'm not a huge fan of bright bubble gum pink, so we opted for something a little "dustier" and more on the rose gold spectrum. This is mostly Pravana pink and yellow, with a little magenta and wild orchid.  This color totally suits her. 

Some Stuff I Did This Week...

   As we're getting into the very busy holiday season at the salon I've decided to document some fun random projects that I work on.  This is a purely pygmalion practice, by which I mean I'd love to actually SEE SOMETHING at the other end of this deluge of work time hours.  Where I would normally be happy with the smile on a clients face as they leave the salon, there is something gratifying about looking back via photographic evidence. 

   I was the sole braider at a pop up "braid bar" during the Montclair Fashion Night Out after party.  Others were supposed to participate as well, but when it came down to it I was flying solo...which is actually a best case scenario for me.  I styled close to twenty young ladies...and was proud of myself for not repeating the same style twice.  As you can probably guess the after party was very dim so no pictures were to be taken. However, here is a fun braid I did on fellow Bangz stylist Danielle while we were bored between clients...

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   It was a fun week for color too.  With the change of season come big changes for clients as well...and its funny because it always tends to be the same girls.  Becky, for example changes her hair color seasonally.  Where we had been going progressively lighter with her color all year through balayage, this visit she wanted to go dark again.  

   Because I know Becky changes her color often I actually keep her single process a consistent 6/75 in Koleston Perfect...and just change the tone either through balayage when going lighter, or glazing when going deeper. This time equal parts 6/74 and 6/73 in Color Touch.  Because her single process never changes it ensures a very even and pretty fading process. 

   Not everyone is going darker, despite the change of seasons.  Thank god, because if it were up to me everyone would be as blonde as possible.  I had a really fun, difficult, and awesome challenge converting a client from brassy level 6 to a pale level 9 blonde. 

   At the risk of missing some of the brassy pieces I knew I couldn't hand paint this project, and ended up foiling her entire head, while avoiding her one inch of regrowth.  I used Wella Freelights with 40 volume developer to lift.  Afterwards I dried her hair and painted her root down giving it a painted effect as opposed to a grown out double process look.  I used Illumina 5/81 and 4/ as her root color.  Knowing how strong the cool tones in the root color were I simply soap capped the color into the blonde ends for a few minutes...and it picked up very pretty. 

   There are just a few projects I had this week. Thanks for reading, and make sure to follow me on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook